Author Archives: The Chronicler
More Infernal Technology, Flowers and Paper Towels
By way of consolation, I thought I would share this little video that I found on TED Talks (worth investigation if you haven’t found it yet). It has nothing at all to do with our normal content, but quite a lot to do with the way we try to live. Now if I was really smart, this would be ’embedded’ or something, but that piece of wizardry doesn’t seem to want to work, so you’ll just have to click on this link.
I guarantee that you won’t be able to use a paper towel again without thinking about Joe Smith.
We have finally had a few days of sunshine, so our Wisteria has reluctantly produced some flowers for us. There’s loads more to come, but it’s keeping the powder dry for a while longer. And if you really want to see the pictures of our sign-checking run, it’s up on Flickr, and the link at the top of the blog will take you there.
The First ToTt of Spring.
Mississippi Mud on one side, Louisiana Gumbo on the other. |
But it’s only breakfast time |
A timely reminder, because we’re fast running out of Deep South, out of Cajun country, heading for the state line that separates Louisiana Gumbo from Texas Steak. The former, a catch-all name for the Creole patois, the gelatinous okra thickened stew and the glutinous local top soil, the latter the end product from the Longhorns we’ve passed. We’re fast running out of miles for finding some ethnic cuisine, a bit of genuine good ol’ southern cookery. We’ll have to hope that the authentic appears by the side of the road in the right place, at the right time. Crawfish pie for breakfast just doesn’t do it.
It’s true; the supermarket is called ‘Piggly Wiggly’. It’s a big company… |
Never Smile at a Crocodile
All our trips have a certain commonality, forbye the collection of mosquito bites and pedalled miles. It’s a tick-off of iconic fauna, be it the grizzlies in the Rockies, the rheas on the Pampa, the bison by the Great Slave Lake or Nessie in the Loch. You’ve not completed a visit, gained your credibility tag, until you’ve scored that, sometimes elusive credit. There’s a procedure to collection, one that has to be completed in the requisite order. No sightings can be made until: firstly, the valued fauna has been awarded tourist board status, to wit, it must appear at least three times in every piece of visitor propaganda. Mysticism and fabulism are no impediments to inclusion, which is why Nessie should be the Crest on the new Scottish coat-of-arms. Secondly, there must be the indirect confirmations of potential sightings. They come in varying forms: diners offering ”gator Po-boys”, gas stations selling Grizzly chewing tobacco, roadside directions to the Official Monster Exhibition. Finally there’s the evidence that officialdom believes in the icon’s existence: the request that makes you wonder why would you want to feed or harass an alligator, or the more ominous newspaper headline reporting ‘bear attacks jogger’. This visit being to the Deep South our quested fauna has to be a snake and an alligator. We’ve carried out all the due diligences, moved through the various stages, scanned the brochures, clocked the menus, looked over every bridge at all the part-submerged logs and trees trying to tick off a crocogator. All to no avail. So far the script is running to form. No serpents, no amphibians. So if they won’t come to us, we’ll have to go to them. It’s time to canoe a bayou.
Rob’s a good friend from college days, who, with Sandra, finds himself posted to Houston, and as a Munro-Bashing Aussie-Scot marooned in flattest east Texas where they haven’t even got any Marilyns, has taken to kayaking. Now as all enthusiasts know, if you leave your kit in a darkened corner, it will mysteriously procreate. So as good fortune would have it, their collection of craft have miraculously bred and there’s seats and paddles for all of us. Maybe it’s beginners luck, but that same good fortune will hold all day. It’s early February, it’s meant to be wintertime when any self respecting ‘gator is dug down, lost in a mud hole and kayakers are pulling on wetsuits, yet this morning we’re in shorts, tee shirts and factor 15 sun screen.
Having a guide who knows the convoluted bends of an oxbowing bayou, which are leads and which dead-ends in a chemical plant’s storm drain, is useful. Better still are a pair of acclimatised eyes. I would never have seen that Moccasin water snake, basking on a log, moments after we launched, nor what I took to be a floating leaf, sliding quietly out from the bank. In stealth mode we round a bend, close in, there it is, easy to see; it would have take a wall-eyed mole to have missed this ten-footer. Some alligators, when spooked will leap with a crash and belly flop the water; others will just stare you out, quietly slip furtively down the bank and silently slide below the surface. This first confirmed ‘tick’ never moved. We drifted on the light breeze, closer and closer. Now I can see the colour of the gums, count the teeth; yellow, and too many. Still it stays motionless. Rob suggests, mischievously, that it’s actually a dummy placed there by the tourist people, and frankly I was beginning to wonder. Then the head moves; they’ve fitted animatronics – rather neat. At three boat lengths, it slithers down the mud and settles below the water, barely a ripple disturbs the skin, leaving only a trickle of bubbles popping on the surface. A trail that’s moving ominously in my way.
Which is as close as you come to a ‘gator story. Unlike bear stories, there’s no need for food stashes up trees, no steaming heaps of poop by the side of the road, no adrenalin-infused dark time awakenings. In short, there’s no opportunity for fabricating a traveller’s credible ‘incredibility story’. There are the ”fed ‘gator, dead ‘gator” warnings, but the biggest risk is a disturbed beast leaping unexpectedly from the bank and swamping your kayak. At the next bend I keep to the very middle of the bayou.
With time our eyes start to tune in, we become accustomed to picking out the good ‘gator haul outs, spotting the telltale signs of mud slides, the sheltering part-submerged logs, the tangles of trapped, floating vegetation. These, the perfect bed for a dozing juvenile, whose parent will be close at hand, only I can’t see it, – yet. Spotting them in the shadows, their eyes and nostrils their only evidence, moments before they sink.
Guesstimating, and overestimating length with a fisherman’s elasticated rule. They’re big, but it’s not quite warm enough yet. It will take a bit more sun for the real monsters to emerge. Unlike the Scots’ monster which only requires the post-pub closing time of a summer’s tourist season to surface.
It’s strange this feeling, this mixing in the same milieu with the last of the dinosaurs. The slow, silent water, the scream of a disturbed osprey, the deliberate stalk of a hunting heron, the ragged tatters of grey moss dripping from the swamped, naked trees. A lost, primordial world. Or it would be, if it wasn’t for the distant hum from the local chemical plant. This frisson of imagined, possible danger, a danger that plays on your subconscious, such that when a giant catfish broaches the surface between your paddle and your hull, it takes several moments for your heart rate and your kayak to stabilise.
It’s a privilege to be moving through this world, in an otherworld that has been consumed by a megacity’s sprawl, devoured but not digested, in a craft that is as close as a person can naturally come to travelling with a relic from a past, a forgotten aeon. It is I who refutes the idiom, as it is I who’s smiling at the crocodile.
Fantasia Arcadia
It’s to be found on every second Irish Linen tea towel, the others having logos of a black toucan or a golden harp.
A second verse could add to this wish list. To include: no stop lines, no semis, no rumble strip and no rush hour, and if I’m really pushing the patience of our guardian, could I include: where gradients are gentle and the camping is free. Now that I’ve stretched the credulity of any omnipotent deity, I’ve also placed this desired world away from the Emerald Isle and set it on to planet ‘Fantastical Arcadia’. Oddly though, this surrealist world does seem to exist, even in this over-hectic land. It’s called the Natchez Trace.
Snippets for Visitors – Mississippi Style.
We’re in the Deep South, y’all! |
Alex must be one very happy bunny. Maybe those ‘Tartan Day’ parades down Fifth Avenue, with First Ministers in dubious kilts, have had more effect than was first realised. For the Official Visitor Guide to the State of Mississippi, under the title of ‘Currency Facilities’, states that the Hancock Bank will change monies from Canada, France, Switzerland, Australia, and Scotland. I’m now rumaging in my sporran for some Groats, to test this proclamation. However, given that Francs and D-Marks still appear to be in circulation maybe I shouldn’t hold my breath. Or does this local bank know somthing that the ECB and the Eurozone have missed?
Sleepless ’til Seattle

Ludd’s Latest Stand
Like fish, we are being slowly, inexorably, reeled in. An inevitability that has a well-scripted conclusion. We fight it with vigour, diving deep into the weeds and tangles of Luddite stubbornness and cantankerous argument. It’s ordained in the scriptures of progress that we’ll end up floundering on the riverbank outside a techno-despot, purchasing a crap-nav or one of its too-clever smarmy-smart half-cousins.
Our predicament is in direct response to an all too familiar conundrum. To see where we’ve been, to find where we are and where we want to be, a map is a neat tool, its use a useful skill, yet both are fast becoming redundant. The best, the only, that we found is a state-wide sheet, crammed with a spiderweb of numbered roads that bear little resemblance to the reality on the ground. We’ve been here before, and there’s two ways of tackling the problem. Either follow convention and end up riding down the edge of busy two lane highways that have a habit of depositing their cargos directly on to a ‘cyclists are banned’ freeway. Or head for the tracery of backroads that may or may not have a desired destination. The former offers assurances and gas-station coffee; the latter a frisson of unpredictability, a distinct taint of adventure and no road signs. To help even out the odds, we try to use local knowledge, which can be of variable quality. Sometimes it’s an opportunity for a casual chat and chance to sign the visitors’ book, but offers little of consequential information. Other times, it’s a fistful of glossy visitor guff, or single sheet of printed, explicit instructions. This last was how we ended up negotiating a series of dirt tracks on to the top of a mountain, in the dark, in the desired place. Ludd drops his first shot, love-15. A lucky point, as there´s always that soupcon of crap-navity, on this occasion the gremlin suggested that we turn left down Duck’s Nest Motorway. Visions of eight-lane macadam that in reality turns out to be eight feet of muddy logging track.
Yet, without that initial draft of instructions we would not have ventured away from the blacktop with it’s tame assurances, which would have meant that we would have missed out on another bit of adventure, another smooth red earth road, another tract of majestic woodland.
The fish is not landed, the game is not lost, the ball is still bouncing along, stotting down to the Gulf of Mexico.
Cheaha
‘Cheaha: the high place’, to credit one piece of optimistic tourist propaganda, suggests that it has ‘probably’ the best view in the USA. Note ‘probably’ not ‘possibly’. where possibly is a euphemism for ‘only’. ‘Only’, as in ‘only view of Alabama’. It is a good vista, a high overview of the complicated geography of low eroded, mounded, forested hills that mingle and mash together like a lumpy pudding. A topography that leads to a perpetual roller-coaster road that, like a stotting ball will bounce all the way to the great southern rivers. Steep slow climbs, fast near instant descents. No bends, the tarmac stretching long and far into the distance. Roads populated by hunters in day-glo caps, the occasional logging truck and barking dog. A road that progresses through an open, bare deciduous forest of denuded red oak and southern pine. Which in a summer’s full leaf, might become claustrophobic, is in this hibernating season, open and inviting. The elongated shadows thrown by the silver grey trunks seem to trap the cold of the early morning frosts, the slow rising sun, melting the glaze, forming railings of crystals that beat time to the flicker of the strobing light, and give a thin encouragement of impending warmth.
‘Cheaha’ the high point’ has one obvious attribute: it’s a mountain in a sea of mole hills. So like any other protruberance that acquires the audacity to reach above the surrounding plane, procures a comms tower of Transylvanian proportions. A stake to skewer a mountain.
‘Cheaha- the high point’, whilst not the physical start to this journey, does make for a good metaphorical beginning. It’s downhill, with lots of re-ascends to further highs, a rolling journey, with a search for the terminating, concluding ‘Cheaha’.
Happy New Year
Blogging across time zones is very confusing. I promise that the last item was posted shortly after 19:30, Central Time, on 31st December, but the blog is determined that it is already January. It’s all just too hard to understand.
Never mind. We’d both like to wish you a very happy New Year, and all the best for 2012. I’m sure it doesn’t really matter when it happened – is happening – will happen.
The Navigator and The Chronicler, in Clanton, AL.