Author Archives: The Navigator

Lakes and Volcanoes

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As we proceeded further south, we passed through some peak tourist country; it became clear that we were a little ahead of time. Thousands of cabins, many campgrounds – theoretically open, but as yet, empty. I did manage to quiz a tourist information officer in one particularly well-served community about this – was there an oversupply? She maintained not – once the season kicked off (15th January) most locals would move out, offering their own homes for rent to holidaymakers, mostly from Santiago. February is peak season, apparently.

We were eye to eye with this fellow at one lodging
Crab with everything
How’s that for a colour? Scabious by the roadside.
Streeet Art
Municipal Building in Collipulli
Railway viaduct at Collipulli. We need a campaign for a new colour scheme for the Forth Bridge 🙂
    Volcan Villarrica photobombing again
    Not just beautiful – lethal, too.
    Interesting architectural influences
    Alstroemerias – indigenous wildflowers. And that’s my dog stick, in case you were wondering!
    Not a bad place to end up.
    Such a happy pair in Puerto Montt!
    Cathedral, Puerto Montt

    Heading South

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    During a previous visit to Chile, we tracked north from Valparaíso, all the way to Cartagena in Colombia. It seemed logical to start our southward journey here.

    We’d headed directly to Valparaíso from the airport in Santiago – not only did that mean we were right at our preferrred starting point, it meant that we avoided the horrible tangle of autopistas around the capital. The bikes were still packed for the flight, so it was a doddle to heave them on to the direct bus right outside Arrivals.

    We had a (literal) baptism of fire as we left town, with smoke from protest fires and a distinct whiff of tear gas in the air. The students at the University were protesting something – I didn’t find out what it was.

    The coast always looks like a tempting ride, with the road hugging the edge of the land; the reality is often quite different, as that road scales the heights to get around cliffs and outcrops. It was a tough ride – but beautiful.

    The march of the condos
    A fixer-upper? It was right opposite a rather smart B & B. Could have potential!
    Incredibly vibrant cardoons punctuating the droughted landscape
    An interesting welcome to a fishing caleta
    Black volcanic sand on the beaches
    This seaweed is edible, though we haven’t had the chance to try it yet. And a reminder of the ever-present hazards of a geologically unstable area.
    Adjustments to the new road following a huge landslide.
    A sea-lion colony offshore. The vultures are making short work of an unfortunate youngster.
    La Iglesia de Piedra – cathedral-like caverns carved by the sea

    Chile – from the beginning.

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    We’ve been a bit remiss in keeping you updated during this trip. I could give you any number of excuses, but I think it’s best jus to get on with the job.

    We spent a few days in Valparaiso, time spent wandering the steep streets and taking in the amazing street art. We put the bikes back together, and decided that it was too much hassle to take them down two floors to road test them – and back again. So road testing was done on day 1 on the road. I can report that not too much meddling was required.

    This was a wind vane, swinging freely with each change
    Of course!
    Favoured sleeeping spot
    Loved this one!
    The beautiful Hostal Po
    High-rises are not exempt